Horseradish sauce recipe hugh fearnley-whittingstall biography

ArchiveDecember 4, 2004

Every year I swear I’ll never ever again be wrapping and delivering presents on Christmas Eve, yet despite my endless resolutions I somehow end up doing just that the following year. On one occasion I was so tired I managed to scrape the side of the car on the gate post on my way home, I was so blind with exhaustion. This year I’m determined to start earlier. I make endless lists, get some inspired ideas but then there are a few special people for whom I can’t seem to find something appropriate. So for this column I’ll focus on pressies for foodie friends. The number of escapees from the city looking for the good life in the country is really gathering momentum. It’s now at last becoming hip to grow one’s own vegetables, have a few hens and a growing number – wait for it – are even keeping a pig. These are the acolytes of Monty Don, Antony Worrall Thompson, Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall and James Martin. Virtually every magazine lifestyle supplement and Sunday supplement has evocative photos of new age farmers in green or even spotty wellies and Barbour jackets feeding the pigs or collecting the eggs – I’m all for it. Sting was one of the originals, but more recently Zac and Sheherazade Goldsmith and Roger Saul of Mulberry were the subject of colour spreads. For these born again rural dwellers a pair of rare poultry, Ancona, Buff Orpington, Hebden Black, Speckledys - Will generate some terrific excitement on Christmas Day – a practical present which will provide a few eggs and maybe a clutch of chickens later in the year. For the aspiring gardener a little hamper of vegetable seeds – say a few early potatoes, a mixture of lettuces and salad leaves, a packet of carrot seed, a few radishes, some beetroot and my favourite broad beans. You may want to add a beginners guide to vegetable gardening to get the whole project kick-started. A selection of little pots of fresh herbs and maybe a window box will also delight a gr
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    So before we sign off for this week for the pantry, fridge and freezer assignment…when the fridge holds too many condiments it is time for something just a little different and then freezer diving for some of the last of the ground beef blend that I grind and keep on hand for burgers, meatballs and meatloaf…I like to grind my own beef because I can control the fat content and package appropriate portions for meatloaf etc.

    What a great day it was for grilling and Hugh’s Bloody Mary burgers with horseradish dressing sounded like a winner to me along with a simple side of a veggie salad for the weekly veggie bin clean out…fattoush a middle eastern version of panzanella for lack of a better description and features sumac, but have no fear, lemon or lemon pepper make a great substitute. I made crispy rough croutons out of whatever bread was needing to be used up, but pita is the normal bread ingredient and I imagine that you can mix in a favorite grain such as quinoa, couscous, or pasta to have a great vegetarian supper dish.

    Makes 4 burgers, wow they must be hefty burgers!  I cut the recipe in half and I made smaller burgers 4+5 ounces each
    the following ingredients can be adjusted to your preferences…
    1 tablespoon tomato paste
    1½ teaspoons prepared horseradish
    ½ teaspoon celery seeds
    4 to 8 dashes of Tabasco or other hot sauce, to taste
    ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
    ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
    Freshly ground black pepper
    3 pounds ground round
    A little canola or olive oil

    For the dressing blend all of the ingredients, cover and refrigerate: ¾- to 1¼-inch piece horseradish root, freshly grated
    1 teaspoon cider vinegar
    2 tablespoons crème fraîche or you can use sour cream and I might add that you might want to make extra for a good slather on each toasted bun
    Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

    To serve: 4 good bread

    Grouse, grouse, everywhere and not a drop of Bread Sauce.

    Grouse is second to only the woodcock, he writes, as his favourite eating game bird. He suggests it should be hung from two to ten days to allow some of the gaminess to dissipate and then offers a traditional roast grouse recipe and accompaniments.Knife bag and this meat bible tucked into my bags, I felt ready to fake my way through the grouse nights ahead. During my first stay at the Lodge, Sir had invited four different groups of guests to come and shoot with him. Each group stayed two nights. The first night was a welcome dinner, the full day of shooting took place the next day, then the black tie dinner starring the grouse they had felled that day, and then another full day of shooting before the guests departed quickly after tea.Welcome dinner, not a problem. A lobster Salad with Lamb's Lettuce and Chives, Slow Roasted Shoulder of Lamb served with Almond Potatoes, Roasted Tomatoes and Leek Gratin, and Blackberry Soufflés for dessert. (Admittedly, the soufflés did give us cause to freak a bit, but in the end they reached optimum heights and tasted delicious.)

    We would not be able to get our hands on a grouse until the following day, after the shooters had returned from the moors. The morning they were all heading out, the head gamekeeper, fully attired in Sir's trademarked green and lavender plaid tweed, came in for his sausage buttie and we tried to glean some information from him. Through crooked teeth and a full mouth, he offered little. He hated the taste of grouse. No he never prepared it himself. His wife would sometimes, but always cut off the breasts and sautéed them separately, never roasting the entire bird.Sir, cleanly scrubbed and also dressed in his tweed (with a lovely cashmere sweater in just the perfect shade of lavender that matched his pattern), sauntered into the kitchen, obviously excited at the thought of going to wipe out the entire young grouse population on his land.

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